You’ve watched the shows. Ugly house, dramatic demo day, a reveal, a big smile. Forty-four minutes, start to finish.
Here is what they don’t film: the inspector who flags the panel, the plumber who doesn’t show on Tuesday, the buyer’s lender who orders an appraisal that comes in light, the six weeks you didn’t plan for. That is flipping houses. Not the reveal. The middle.
I’m Ben Lovro. I buy, renovate and sell houses across the South Carolina Midlands through Cash Property Offers, and I’ve worked flips in places like Lugoff and Newberry, with one underway in Irmo right now. I’m going to give you the actual sequence I use — no hype, no promises — so you can decide whether house flipping is a business you want to run.
Because that’s what it is. Flipping is a construction business wearing a real estate costume. The people who last treat it that way.
What flipping houses really is
A fix and flip has four moving parts:
- Buy right. You make your money when you buy. Not when you sell.
- Scope right. You know what the house needs and what it costs before you sign.
- Manage time. Every day the house sits unfinished is a day you’re paying for it.
- Sell right. You finish to what the neighborhood supports and price to what the comps say.
Miss any one of those and the other three can’t save you. Get all four and you’ve got something you can repeat.
Two deals is luck. Twenty is a system. The rest of this site breaks down each piece, but here’s the overview in order.
Step one: buy right
Every flip starts with three numbers, and only one of them is in your control.
- ARV — the after repair value. What the house sells for once it’s done, proven by sold comps, not by hope.
- Repairs — the full cost to bring it to that ARV, plus a contingency.
- Your purchase price — the only number you actually choose.
The classic screen is the 70% rule: your maximum allowable offer equals ARV × 0.70, minus repairs. That other 30% isn’t free money. It has to cover buying costs, holding costs, selling costs, financing, the surprises, and whatever is left for you. I break it down at the 70 percent rule page, including when I tighten it.
The ARV is where most beginners lie to themselves. They pull the highest sale in the zip code and call it a comp. I don’t. My comps have to be recent sales — three to six months back at most — and close by, usually inside a mile, in the same school zone with no highway or rail line splitting them from the subject. They match on beds and baths, land within ±20% on square footage, and look like the house in age, style and stories. I want at least three. If you want the full method, the deal analysis site walks through ARV, comps and offer math step by step.
Step two: scope right
You can’t buy right if you don’t know what the house needs.
I walk every property with a repair sheet organized top to bottom — the roof and the mechanicals first (HVAC, electrical, plumbing), then the structure, windows, the kitchen and baths, the floors and walls, and finally the exterior. I don’t guess a single lump number from the driveway. I go room by room, system by system, and I write down what I see and what I suspect.
Then I price it with real local ranges I’ve built with my contractors — not with a national calculator. And I add a contingency, roughly 15%, because every house hides something behind the drywall.
I teach the full walk-through in how to estimate rehab costs. If you only read one other page on this site, read that one. Repair estimates are where flips quietly die.
Step three: manage the clock
Here is the thing nobody tells new flippers: time is a line item.
Every day you own the house, you’re paying. Loan interest or the cost of your own tied-up cash. Taxes. Insurance. Utilities. Lawn. Your own hours. I want to know my holding cost per day before I close, so a two-week delay is a real number in my head instead of a vague annoyance.
That’s why contractor management matters so much. A good scope of work, a written schedule, draws paid only against completed work, lien waivers, daily photos. I cover the system on the managing contractors page.
And it’s why the financing decision matters. Cash, hard money, private money, a partner, a home equity line — each one changes your cost of time and your risk. The trade-offs are on the financing a flip page.
Step four: sell right
The sale isn’t something that happens to you at the end. You design it at the beginning.
- Finish to the comps. If the sold houses around you have laminate counters and builder-grade fixtures, quartz and custom tile won’t get paid back. Over-improving is one of the quietest ways to lose a flip.
- Price to the comps. Not to what you need. The market doesn’t care what you spent.
- Get inspection-ready. Fix the things a buyer’s inspector will find before they find them.
- Work with a good listing agent. Someone who knows investor product and will tell you the truth about your finish and your price.
The full process is on the selling a flip page.
The three killers
When flips go wrong, it’s almost never one dramatic event. It’s usually one of three slow leaks.
Killer one: a fantasy ARV
You bought based on the number you wanted instead of the number the comps proved. Now the house is done, the listing is live, and nobody bites at that price. Every fix for this happens before you buy.
Killer two: a guessed repair budget
You walked the house in ten minutes, said it “needs a kitchen and paint,” and missed the roof, the subfloor under the bathroom and the panel. The budget blows up, the timeline stretches, and the margin you thought you had is gone.
Killer three: no exit B
You only had one plan — sell retail — and the market softened, or the appraisal came in low, or the buyer walked. A careful flipper always knows the backup: could this work as a rental? Could it be sold to another investor? If the answer is no, the deal is riskier than it looks. Running the rental numbers is covered on the rental property site.
I wrote up these and the other mistakes I’ve made or watched on the house flipping mistakes page.
Who should — and shouldn’t — flip houses
Flipping fits you if:
- You can tolerate uncertainty for months at a time.
- You can be on site, or have someone reliable who is.
- You’re willing to hold contractors accountable — kindly, but firmly.
- You have access to capital, or a partner who does, and you understand the risk.
- You like systems more than drama.
Flipping is probably not your first move if:
- You don’t have reserves for the surprise you didn’t budget for.
- You can’t stomach the idea of losing money on a deal.
- You’ve never pulled comps or walked a house with a repair sheet.
If you’re brand new and short on capital, there’s no shame in learning the deal side first. Many investors start by finding deals and learning to underwrite before they ever swing a hammer. The comparison is on the wholesaling vs flipping page, and the bigger beginner sequence lives at start investing.
What flipping looks like in the Midlands
I’m based in Lexington, and most of my renovation work happens within about an hour of Columbia. The housing stock here tells you a lot about how to flip. In-town Columbia has older character homes in neighborhoods like Shandon, Rosewood and Earlewood. West Columbia and Cayce have plenty of smaller, dated houses on small lots. Irmo has suburban neighborhoods from the 1970s through the 1990s where first-generation owners are aging in place.
Each of those is a different flip — different buyer, different finish level, different surprises in the walls. If you’re working locally, start with flipping houses in Columbia SC or flipping houses in Lexington SC.
Why I teach this
I run my own business on process, and I’d rather hand you the process than watch you learn it the expensive way. My family comes first, and I build things meant to last longer than me. A flipping business that depends on luck doesn’t last. One that runs on a checklist can.
If you want the full path from first lead to closed deal — scripts, checklists, and the one-page deal analyzer I use — grab the free investor playbook. And when you’ve got a real house in front of you, bring it to REI Skool and let other investors poke holes in your numbers before you sign.
Your next step: pick one house in your area that sold recently after a renovation. Pull its comps using my rules, estimate what it needed, and work the 70% formula backward. Do that five times this week. That’s how flippers are made.
Questions people ask
How do I flip houses with no experience?
Start by learning to underwrite before you learn to renovate. Pull comps, walk houses with a repair sheet, and run the numbers on deals you don’t buy. Your first flip should be cosmetic — no moved walls, no new rooflines. The beginner rules are laid out at first flip.
What is the difference between flipping and fix and flip?
They’re the same thing. A fix and flip means you buy a house that needs work, renovate it, and sell it to a retail buyer. Some people use “flipping” loosely to mean wholesaling, which is a different business with different legal rules.
What is the hardest part of flipping houses?
Time. Most people think the hard part is finding the deal or picking finishes. The real fight is the calendar — every extra week costs you holding expenses and exposes you to market shifts. Schedule management is the job.
Is house flipping risky?
Yes. You can lose money on a flip through a bad ARV, a missed repair, a slow contractor or a soft market. You manage that risk by buying with a margin, scoping carefully, keeping a contingency, and always having a second exit.